Milan designers Fendi, Armani and Dolce&Gabbana sought to invoke joy with collections that invited a return to leisure and a few notes of nostalgia.
Denim flip-flops , fringes and thick rubber. These are next year’s summer wardrobe items emerging from the second Saturday of Milan Fashion Week menswear previews , Fendi, Armani, Dolce Gabbana show off their best.
Temperatures in Milan were unusually high and the fashion crowd glided from show to show with the thermometer topping 34 C (93 F) and forecast to rise further in the coming days. That makes linen an easy sell, but less so for leather and even furs appearing on Milan’s Spring-Summer 2023 runways .
FRINGE IN FENDI
Silvia Venturini Fendi created earthy, grounded looks for a planet-conscious generation in hues ranging from soothing chambray to rich ochres, merging into a new motif created from images of planet Earth’s swirling weather patterns.
The collection had some nostalgia for more innocent times, from frayed hems on jeans to soft stitching on denim bags , embroidered details reminiscent of beaded daisy chains, and long, lush tassels on loafers. Bucket hats are cropped for a brim-like feel, while knit bell hats sport brims. The chunky rubber slip-ons were adorned with the inverted double F logo.
For a simple day look , denim pants with matching tonal knitwear were worn, paired with a distressed denim Fendi shopper with a long, fringed crossover strap. For the beach, there were linen shorts with soft zip-up jackets and sturdy-soled loafers. At the dressier end, roomy cream Bermuda shorts paired with a camel jacket and an ocher zip at the back, with the cropped bucket hat.
The swirling patterns of Earth appeared on jacquard coats and knitwear and intarsia furs, and on a pair of baggy overalls. The bags included a combination of a canvas bag shaped like the word FENDI cut out in leather; a denim Peekaboo built in as an external holder for a water bottle and bright shoppers were made from recycled plastic.
"It’s about a balance between decoration and simplicity," Venturini Fendi said in the show notes. "A timeless sense of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of free time."
DOLCE&GABBANA REVISITES PAST SEASONS
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana searched their archives for a new collection called "Reissue" that draws inspiration from the past, but is updated for the time being. As if wiping the slate clean, the designers opened the show with a barefoot model in a white tank top and boxer shorts.
Dolce&Gabbana mixed distressed elements with tailored pieces for a high-low fashion appeal. The fashion house’s traditional lace blouses were updated with a distressed, dirty back, giving the otherwise dressier piece some streetwear credibility. Frayed jeans were worn with a black jacket and white shirt unbuttoned to the waist; As with the entire Re-edition collection, each piece carried a tag stating the original year of issue and the 2023 season update, for a dose of now and then.
Patchwork denim became statement pieces, with knee- high boots that looked like they were made from jean jackets paired with patchwork shorts, leaving just a glimpse of leg in the middle. A soft white fleece tracksuit gave way to familiar Dolce&Gabbana bling: a rose-print jacket covered in crystals, worn with ripped white jeans and rhinestone-covered velvet slippers. Footwear included furry slippers, canvas or macrame slippers with rope laces.
“I love the freedom of expression they have,” said hairstylist Apuje Kalu, who watched the show from the front row alongside NFL quarterback Tyrod Taylor and NBA players Rudy Gay, Jaren Jackson Jr. and Corey Kispert. “That use of color, texture and pattern, they’re not afraid to do it for men. You don’t always see that."
THE SEALANDSCAPES OF EMPORIO ARMANI
Emporio Armani ‘s collection carried the carefree air of summer, from light shades of chambray to faded coral prints. The sense of the looks was that it is time to return to the simple pleasures.
Soft shirts, vests and jackets , with dramatic lapels, stand-up collars or zipper details, were paired with streamlined cargo shorts or pleated pants, often with casual leg slits.
Beachier looks, including lace-up trousers and sheer knitwear, were completed with chunky rubber slip-ons, while more urbane and sophisticated looks, including a series of black and white mix-and-match suits, were paired with black pumps. thick sole. As if to underline the need for joy, a reggae dancer jaunted from the center of the stage to close the show.
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